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If, as you will, arrive in the afternoon from Gederaf stay on the Sudanese side as the infrastructure in Metema is pretty shitty! No mains power after 8, shitty toilets, no banks, no decent hotels, an air of menace and then you have to fight and elbow your way for a seat or space in the bus that leaves in the dark.
To add a little to your story Dan, our bus took all day to get to Gondar as there was a broken down truck with a cactus gearbox on one of the few concrete bridges. All of the passengers took turns with the pick and shovel to dig out a dirt bank beside the road as a few of the ladies heated water and supplied us with Shay [tea]. It took 3 hours to do this. Once we were on our way again we were stopped by a 'bad' [is there a good], bus rollover where there were some broken arms and bashed up people but nothing worse.
WE crammed another 10 people, the mothers and people who needed hospital treatment the most and had to leave the others on the side of the road. As Dan will attest the road is a little too rough for roof top travel. So it took all day for our sorry bit of moving humanity to reach Gondar by which time some people were openly crying in pain, some were vomiting in the middle isle of the bus where people and baggage was stored and off course to add to the stuffy and claustropbobic atmosphere the windows remained shut in that Ethiopian tradition.
I carried a small 3cm stick thereafter to wedge the window open. Welcome to Ethiopia via Metema. Thanks for the story Dan and good luck with the rest of your travels. Lots of people have not thought much of Metema.